It’s been a slow week as, recovering from my bicycle
accident, I can’t sit at the desk more than a few minutes at a time before my
broken ribs start aching. Nevertheless, I did manage to get out on Saturday to
see On the Road,
the Kerouac saga that’s
recently been adapted to the screen after being filmed, in part, in Argentina. Having
grown up after the Beats, I certainly read On the Road, but I can’t compare my
own experiences with the flamboyant Bohemianism of Sal Paradise (Kerouac’s
fictional persona), his friend and idol Jack Cassady (“Dean Moriarty” in the book and film), Allen Ginsberg (“Carlo Marx”), and William Burroughs (“Old Bull Lee,”
played by honorary Argentine Viggo Mortensen, who grew up on the Pampas).
Partly, in seeing the film, I was hoping to be able to
identify specific Argentine landscapes that so closely resemble parts of the
western United States (such as the steppe of Neuquén province, in the
photograph above). Brazilian director Walter Salles, though,
was astute enough not to leave any obvious clues, especially given his
experience in filming the Che Guevara epic The
Motorcycle Diaries a few years ago.
Argentina, though, has its own history of road movies. I
don’t pretend to have an encyclopedic knowledge of the country’s cinema, but
there are a couple Patagonian road movies that, in addition to The Motorcycle
Diaries, I would recommend. The first is director Carlos Sorín’s Historias Mínimas
(Intimate Stories, 2002), three intertwined tales set in the coastal city
of Puerto
San Julián, in Patagonia’s Santa Cruz province. It’s more a slice-of-life
film, available streaming on Netflix in the United States.
The second, director Marcelo Piñeyro’s Caballos Salvajes
(Wild Horses, 1995) is a Robin Hood/Bonnie and Clyde bank-robber caper that begins
in Buenos
Aires but ends in the robbers’ fleeing to Patagonia to avoid both the
police and the Mafia. It features two of Argentina’s finest actors, Héctor Alterio and Federico Luppi; while
not apparently available on streaming video, it’s worth seeking out on DVD.
In Other News
On Saturday, I did a short radio interview on off-season
travel to Chilean
Patagonia for Rudy
Maxa’s World, a syndicated travel program that is now available on streaming audio at the link
indicated. Also, for anyone planning travel to Chile this fall
(southern spring), I will be serving as a guest lecturer aboard the Navimag ferry shuttle between Puerto
Montt and Puerto
Natales between November 11 and 18. This covers the southbound segment to Natales
and, after a day in port, the northbound return to Puerto Montt. If all goes
well, we may do an encore in March.
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