My own stay, funded by a Fulbright-Hays Doctoral
Dissertation Research Abroad fellowship, gave me plenty of time to get to know
the islands, which were much more than just a war zone – they are also a great
biosphere reserve and home to a local population who made us feel at home – in
fact, several of them even shared their homes with us, despite my wife’s
suspect Argentine nationality (she traveled there on her US passport, as
Argentines passports were then unacceptable to local authorities).
Over our 13 months, we enjoyed observing enormous amounts of
wildlife in what felt like a sub-Antarctic Galápagos, at
least in the sense that the countless birds and numerous marine mammals were
virtually fearless – it was easy to approach penguins and other birds, not to
mention marine mammals such as southern elephant seals, for photographs. I now
have thousands of photos of Falklands fauna, many of them taken on succeeding
trips as I have updated my Moon
Handbook to Patagonia.
The difference, of course, is that the Galápagos’ species
diversity is far greater; the Falklands have fewer species, but greater numbers
of individuals in sprawling shoreline colonies. Five different species of
penguins breed in the Islands, with occasional visitors as well, but they’re
not my favorite birds here.
Rather, I prefer the black-browed
albatross (pictured above), with its almost porcelain beauty, which is easiest to see and
approach on Saunders
Island, one of the archipelago’s largest islands after East and West
Falkland. At The Rookery, near the sandy isthmus called The Neck that virtually
separates Saunders in two, these curious birds warily waddle up to visitors who
take a seat nearby.
That’s why I was encouraged to read that the species, which
Falklanders call the “mollymawk,” is recovering
from a population decline that had placed it on the IUCN endangered species
list because long-line fishing had contributed to high mortality rates. Seventy
percent of the species breeds in the islands, though there are also substantial
numbers on South Georgia
(which, unfortunately, I have never been able to visit). According to local
conservationist Sally
Poncet, whom I know fairly well, South Georgia mollymawk numbers have not recovered
in the way Falklands populations have.
Five-Star Falklands?
Meanwhile, the new director of Falkland Islands Tourism, Tony Mason
(whom I have never met, as he only recently took over the job) has suggested
that the
Islands are ready for their first five-star hotel. At the moment,
accommodations in the capital of Stanley consist mostly of cozy B&Bs plus
the Malvina House Hotel (pictured below), which
would be good accommodations almost anywhere. Nearly all the Islands’ tourism
is cruise-ship based and, when things get crowded in town, beds can be hard to
come by (on a handful of occasions when high seas and winds have made it
impossible for cruise passengers to return to their vessels, local authorities
have had to appeal to residents to open their spare rooms to the temporarily
stranded).
The question is whether a country whose total population is
barely 3,000 (of whom roughly 2,000 reside in the capital) can justify the
construction and operation of a facility that will sit virtually empty about
half the year (the wildlife season runs from September to March or April). Given
the limited and precarious overseas communications (weekly flights from Chile,
depending on a capricious Argentine foreign policy, and two or three charters a
month from the Brize
Norton, Oxfordshire), devoting limited resources to such a project would
seem debatable. Even the most well-to-do sightseers and wildlife-watchers would
probably only stay there at the beginning and the end of their visits.
Maintaining that level of service in a destination with a limited labor force
would appear to be a real challenge.
No comments:
Post a Comment