Valparaíso
is, by my reckoning, Chile’s
most distinctive city, its hills neighborhoods linked to the historic center –
a UNESCO World Heritage Site -
by picturesque
funiculars. For 19th-century sailors, their first glimpse of the city came
from the bell tower of the Iglesia
San Francisco, which gave it the name of “Pancho” (a diminutive of
“Francisco”). That’s no longer true, though, since a fire,
whose causes are still under investigation, virtually destroyed the landmark
church yesterday (as the Spanish-language video below shows).
I’m not a religious person, though I do appreciate the
architecture and historical significance of structures such as this landmark
church on Cerro Barón (pictured above before the fire). What I find bewildering
is that, with so many other necessities, the Chilean government would
prioritize the reconstruction of a church (dating from 1845) that had already
suffered major fires in 1983 and 2013. At the time of the fire, it was close to
being re-inaugurated by outgoing President
Sebastián Piñera.
As a symbol of the city, the church is a designated national
historical monument and, if it all possible, it would be nice to see its
reconstruction, but there are problems here. The government contributed to the
recent reconstruction and, on the video, officials seem to suggest that will
again be the case. As a non-Chilean, I don’t have any direct say in the matter,
but subsidizing a wealthy institution like the Catholic Church seems like a
poor choice of priorities when topics like funding for university education are
on the docket for the
next president, whoever she is. Doesn’t the church itself have fire
insurance to cover this? (Despite the brick facade, much of the interior consists of wood).
This is far from the first time the Church has leaned on
government for assistance in restoring its real estate, but it hasn’t always
been successful. In 1985, Santiago’s Basílica del
Salvador suffered major earthquake damage but, despite repeated requests
from the church, there was little progress until the massive 2010 earthquake
accelerated the damage. Now fenced off, the building may not be an immediate
danger to surrounding buildings but, realistically speaking, this is a building
that should be demolished.
Nevertheless, two years ago, the Ministerio
de Obras Públicas (Public Works Ministry) announced that it would accept
bids for a temporary support structure, in order to evaluate a possible future
reconstruction. Surely, though, if the Catholic hierarchy thought this was a
building worth saving, they would have invested some of their own funds in last
28 years.
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