In recent decades, one of South America’s greatest
conservation successes has been the comeback of the wild vicuña (pictured above),
the rare camelid that’s a close relative of the equally wild guanaco and the domestic llama
and alpaca. Wild, however, does not mean fierce and, more recently according
to the Los Angeles Times, poachers
have begun to take a serious toll on these gentle and approachable creatures.
When I first traveled to Chile, in the late 1970s, there
were only about 1,000 vicuñas in Parque Nacional Lauca (pictured above),
which abuts the Bolivian border in the high Andes, east of the city of Arica. That number has risen as
high as 17,000, but the Times article
cites a figure of only 13,000. When I lived there for nearly a year in the
early 1980s, while doing research for my
M.A. thesis in Geography at Berkeley, sighting solitary vicuñas or troops
of them was always a thrill as I traveled the high plains, whether riding in a
bus, hiking, or riding a mule.
Still, at more 4,000 meters (14,000 feet) above sea level,
this is a thinly populated area where a handful of rangers cannot monitor the
herds along a porous border – when I lived there, Aymará Indian families
regularly crossed to and back from Bolivia with no regard for
immigration formalities.
Since the vicuña’s fine wool sells for roughly US$1,000 per
kilo – on the black market – it’s become difficult to control ruthless poachers
who shoot to kill and then skin the animals before selling the hides and wool
to smugglers who ship them out of the country.
Park rangers are unarmed and, earlier this year, poachers killed two Carabineros
police officers who had stopped them at a roadblock near Arica.
The Times story
cites my friend Hernán
Torres, a conservation consultant whom I met there in the early 1980s, to
the effect that “Law enforcement officials in the Andes have simply been
overwhelmed by the mafias who have the vicuña killed and skinned, and who then
sell the fiber to China and Europe.”
The vicuñas are not the only victims. Chile and other countries now have programs that allow highland communities to manage the herds
sustainably, trapping and shearing them at regular intervals. That’s become
more difficult, less profitable, and potentially risky for those who continue
to do so.
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