Hundreds of Patagonia
cruises pass through the ports of Punta Arenas and Ushuaia every year. Not so long
ago, though, only merchant shipping and local vessels sailed the Strait of Magellan
and the Beagle Channel
where, today, picturesque hulks still lie along the shoreline. For the most
part, they’re not along the Cape
Horn cruise route between Punta Arenas and Ushuaia, but they’re easy to see
on overland excursions.
The most striking site is Estancia San Gregorio,
on the Strait of Magellan about 125 km north of Punta Arenas, where the faded
but imposing buildings of a sheep station line both sides of a smoothly paved
highway (it’s a worthwhile detour for travelers, especially photographers,
bound for Puerto Natales
and Torres
del Paine). Along the beach, a short walk from the road, the Ambassador (pictured below) is
a British clipper (launched in 1869) whose weathering wooden hull and rusting
iron skeleton once hauled tea from China to England. It’s withstood more than a
century of Patagonian winters and, in 1973, Chile declared it a national
historical monument.
Almost alongside the Ambassador,
another national historical monument also built in Britain, the Amadeo (pictured below) was a local steamer that operated from the 1890s until 1932 before being
grounded here. Visitors can explore the wreckage of both vessels, but be
careful when doing so – they’re not likely to collapse, but slipping and
falling could have serious consequences.
At the Argentine end of the itinerary, it’s even easier to
see a historic shipwreck - but not so easy to reach it. In downtown Ushuaia, offshore
near the Club Naútico but not accessible on foot, the Maine-built rescue tug St. Christopher (pictured below) was originally a US Navy
vessel that became the Royal Navy’s HMS Justice and
may have served during the D-Day invasion of Normandy in 1944. Purchased by an
Argentine company after the war, she served in salvage operations along the
Beagle Channel before being scuttled in the mid-1950s.
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