More than once, I’ve expressed my distaste for the cliché
that Buenos Aires is the “Paris of the South,” when it’s really a New
World immigrant city that’s more closely analogous to New York. Admittedly,
I’m no Francophile – on three quick trips through France, I’ve managed to avoid
Paris every time – but I can still point out the superficiality of such
comparisons.
Today I’ll do so with my own comparison – or rather contrast
– between two typical food items, the French-style croissant (pictured above)
and the Argentina medialuna (pictured
below). The Spanish word medialuna literally means “half-moon,” but I’ve always thought that a misnomer – it looks more like
crescent moon to me.
I’ve always liked croissants, with their light flaky dough; the
ones at top come from the Compañía
de Chocolates in our Palermo neighborhood, which produces the closest thing
I’ve seen to its authentic French counterpart here. There are several other branches around town.
The smaller medialunas,
by contrast, consist of heavier and breadier dough. There are two styles: I
prefer de manteca (buttery and
sweeter) to de grasa or salada (savory), but both
are available at almost every bakery in Buenos Aires and the provinces, and
form part of the buffet breakfast at almost every Argentine hotel. I would
normally leave the house early every day to get the freshest possible (I try to
limit myself to two with my morning tea).
While French-style croissants may be available in Buenos
Aires, they’re not quite authentic – I like them buttery, but I could do
without the sugary glaze that these come with. They’re also considerably more
expensive than medialunas – my morning fix of the latter (also glazed) costs me
nine pesos (US$1 at the official exchange rate, US$0.69 with the “blue market”
advantage). The croissant and a pan de
chocolate (pain au chocolat),
meanwhile, cost me 44 pesos (US$5.15 at the official rate, US$3.38 with “blue
pesos). That’s not a budget-buster but, on most mornings, I opt for medialunas. It’s fair to add that, back
home in California, I can get better croissants (for a slightly lower price than
the official rate), without the glaze.
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